A few years ago I received a call asking if I’d like to attend a dinner with Hugh Johnson, without question one of the greatest wine writers. Unfortunately, I had to decline the invitation – but I was able to meet up with him and share a bottle beforehand. I was nervous as hell (it’s like the monkey from the E-Trade commercials getting a call from Jack Nicholson), but relieved when he and I both gravitated to the same wine on the list (Millton Chenin Blanc from Gisborne, New Zealand). After a glass and a half or so, Johnson cracked a smile and uttered words I’ll not soon forget:

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